Back home safely from the Motherland

So I have made in back safely to Canada. Apologies for not updating my blog earlier, my mom gently reminded me to a couple days ago so that “my readers” (…if there really are any), wouldn't start worrying that I had died or something.

My whole experience was absolutely incredible – I can’t even really put it into words. I think it was definitely what I needed after having a bit of a tough year. I have learned so much from this experience, and am sure it has changed me (or changed the way I look at things) in many ways. It's been a very humbling experience. I can only hope it will be the first, of many trips to Africa – and I am already dreaming of going back. It’s a little strange to be back in Canada. Day to day life isn’t nearly as funny. The weekend before I left to go to Uganda I was home for my dad’s 50th birthday (he’s getting up there!) and brought a bag of clothes home from school so that I would have something to wear for in August before going back to school in the fall. I had kind of forgotten about that, and when I got home and unpacked… the first thing I thought of was “OMG I have so much STUFF”. It really made me realize how little you can get by on, and how much we have.

So I am catching up on posts now; some from Rwanda, that I wanted to write but didn’t have a much time so I decided to hold off. The first one – is on the genocide memorials – so maybe best to start there if you want to read them in some kind of order. Also, I went back and added some pics and videos to some earlier posts (Videos from TASO in - "Village Outreaches...", and "Hips Don't Lie"). In any case, if you aren’t bored with reading about my adventures and want to look at some more photos I have a bunch on facebook that I’m told you can view even without a facebook account so here’s the links:

Daily life in Jinja and around Uganda:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118061&l=a43dd&id=72600406

A little more of daily life:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118063&l=c6874&id=72600406

Pics of nights out and people from the guesthouse:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118068&l=daa64&id=72600406

Safari pics:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118071&l=d1ef9&id=72600406

The adorable kids at Welcome Home Orphanage:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118073&l=2f9be&id=72600406

A few from around TASO and the Jinja Hospital:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118074&l=40a13&id=72600406

The best of the pics from around Rwanda:
http://mcmaster.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2118075&l=55cb3&id=72600406

Glad I could share this adventure with you all!

Ode to Vicki!!!!!!

Wanted to write a little post about Vicki – whom I spent nearly every minute with when I wasn’t at TASO. We got along incredibly well, I learned a lot from this girl, and had many wonderful conversations with her.

One of the things that I struggled with a bit while I was in Uganda, was religion. I’ve gone to church, but I wasn’t brought up as a Christian. I feel in many ways that I am spiritual, but believe more so in being what I consider to be a “good person” in my every day life – trying my best to be kind to everyone, and being compassionate and caring to those around me to the best of my ability. In Uganda, you are either Chrisitan or you are Muslim. If you are neither, you believe in traditional religion (witchcraft type stuff). The people I met in Uganda are extremely open and forward in discussing religion. People that I just met would ask me if I was born again, if I believed Jesus was my saviour, etc. I wasn’t really prepared for this. I had never been so confronted with religion, so immersed in a culture where it is so important. When I explained to people that I am spiritual in a sense, but not Christian per se – that I am interested in learning about many different religions; some people tried to convince me that other religions were “wrong” and misguided, and they counseled me that I still had time “to be saved”. I think many aspects of religion (be it Christianity, or anything else), are great. But some of the ways that the Church works in Uganda, seemed a little backwards to me. For example: people would talk about how devote they are, yet they would cheat on their partners on a regular basis.
A lot of it seemed as though the actions of praising God, and going to church seemed more important than being a “good Chrisitan” in day to day life. Looking back it was a neat process to go through, and I found it really interesting to learn about how crucial a role religion plays in life in Uganda. I must admit though, I found it difficult at times because I would find myself explaining my position (in hour long conversations about religion) a couple times a week. Vicki, really helped me through this process. She’s a Christian (and studied at a bible college in New Zealand for a year) – and whenever I would become frustrated with it, I would talk to her. She had a lot of patience with me, and would answer questions I had, and would explain her views on things. I found it refreshing to talk to her – and definitely gave me some new perspectives on Christianity and religion in general.

Vicki – thank you for all the porch sits, awesome talks, hugs, and laughs, the early morning runs (when I got up for them – haha…runs with headlamps), staying up all night with me when I had food poisoning, all the DUCKS and ACDs. I couldn’t have asked for anything more, or a better person to travel and share this incredible experience with. Your hippy-ness has started to wear off on me – and my first time grocery shopping in Canada, I bought chick peas, tuna, and granola. Before I know it I’ll be walking around barefoot and have dreads (hahah…jk… I don’t think I will ever go THAT far). I can’t wait for the Summerland (aka. Super Happy Fun Land) reunion! Love you so much!

In case you haven’t seen it, Vicki also has a blog: www.vkharris.blogspot.com

Tribal Council

From reading “An Ordinary Man” – I learned that traditionally in Rwanda, disputes that arose in villages would be settled in what they called “Gacaca Trials”. “Gacaca” means “justice on the grass,” and would consist of a mini trial whereby people would explain their side of the story. A lot of value is placed on honesty (to oneself and to the community). The community would listen, and would collectively come up with a way to reconcile the dispute – and come up with appropriate punishments.

I was fascinated to learn (at the genocide memorials) that Gacaca trials are currently being used to try some of the perpetrators of the genocide. Because of the sheer number of “genocidaries” – the government has utilized this traditional route. While we were driving up to Pilagie’s village we drove through several trials that were taking place literally, on the grass. The representative from Compassion told us that every two weeks they have trials, and people gather outside under trees and listen to prisoners explain who they killed, how they killed them and where they left the remains in the villages where they performed these acts. He explained that it is therapeutic in a way for many villagers as they can find out where there family members remains are (many of whom are still missing), which may provide some closure. The prisoners’ accounts are recorded and then judges elected within the community, who wear blue, green and yellow (Rwandese colors) sashes, determine a sentence. As we drove through the country, it was weird to see prisoners everywhere, in their light pink garb doing work in the fields, and testifying in the trials.

At the genocide memorial they had a video clip from one of the trials – and it was startling to hear the prisoner explain who he killed and who that person was related to. It seemed bizarre to me, that he knew him – it was people killing their own neighbors.

Meeting Pilagie

Vicki and I went grocery shopping (they have real grocery stores in Kigali!!!!!!! – which was a bit of an adventure in itself), to buy a bunch of things for Vicki’s sponsor child, Pilagie and her family. It was kind of exciting to be able to spoil her family a bit – so we bought a bunch of basic food supplies (oil, different types of floor, rice, etc), as well as some things for around the house (bowls, soap, toothpaste, toothbrushes, etc.) and then some toys for Pilagie and her siblings.

Early on Wednesday morning, a representative from Compassion International (the organization which Vicki sponsors Pilagie through) picked us up and we drove for three hours to get to Pilagie’s village. Stunning drive up, absolutely beautiful scenery. One tape played on repeat the whole time – so we heard a whole lot of Celine Dion, old school backstreet boys, KC and Jojo and some other equally old and cheesy music. Was fun at first – but by the time “All I have to give” came on for the 6th or 7th time it started getting a little annoying.

As soon as we pulled up to the Compassion office, a women started taking our picture on this old camera (bigger than the my red and white “fisher price” one – believe it or not). There was a big reception for us, and they told us all about the work that Compassion is doing in Pilagie’s village (there about 250 kids that are sponsored in the area). Then we met Pilagie, her parents, and her brothers and sisters. Her parents were adorable – so happy to be able to meet Vicki – and incredibly thankful. It was really one of the neatest experiences ever to see Vicki meet Pilagie, who she has been sponsoring and sending letters to for the past two years. I think Pilagie was a little scared at first – maybe because it was such a big ceremony and she was at the center of all of it, but started to open up once she got used to us. We played for a little while with her and her siblings – blew bubbles, played with some little balls that we got for them, and gave them some candy. Pilagie’s truly a beautiful girl – and I felt really honored to be able to be present and share this experience with Vicki. The drive home, neither Vicki or I really said a word. I stuck my head half out the window and soaked in the beauty of the country. I think part of me, knew that I was leaving soon so I wanted to remember and experience as much “Africa” as I could.

Our paparrazzi for the day:
Pilagie giving Vicki a bag that her mom made for Vicki (her mom made me one too!)

Kids outside peering in to find out what was gonig on...

Vicki with Pilagie and her family.

Never Again

Vicki, two American guys we had met on the bus down to Kigali (Brandon and Joseph), and I went to Kigali Memorial Center, which is one of the main genocide memorials in the country. The main exhibit provided history of the country leading up to the genocide (the different tribal groups, through colonization, and then after independence) as to better understand the genocide, then documented the genocide itself, followed by the consequences and its aftermath. The exhibit struck a good balance between providing information and history, as well as having videos that played survivor’s stories and testimonies (which to me are more moving and interesting). I found one part about “Heroes” of the genocide really interesting, which featured short stories of people who saved Tutsi (and moderate Hutu) lives through different means. Two stories that really stuck out: one, of a woman who everyone in the area thought was mad, who kept refugees in her house and threatened to curse anyone who tried to come on her property. And then another about a man who built trenches in his backyard and to hide people. He then covered up the trenches with banana leaves and built fake crops overtop so it looked like a regular farm.

It was heart wrenching at times reading about the horrible ways that innocent people were slaughtered by machetes, clubbed to death or tortured. One of the most moving parts of the exhibit was a picture memorial – which displayed thousands of victims photos (everything from polaroids, school pictures, to wedding photos). Vicki and I spent quite a lot time just looking at all the people. I think I spoke to this in an earlier post about HIV, and how I find statistics dehumanizing at times. For me, seeing people’s photos, allowed me to imagine what the person may have been like, their stories, their family, etc. which makes everything so much more real. There were also some smaller rooms which displayed victim’s bloodstained clothes, some personal belongings, identity cards, and skulls and bones - which was equally haunting.

Upstairs they had two smaller exhibits – one on other genocides that have happened around the world (Armenia, Holocaust, Cambodia, Namibia, among others). At the end of the exhibit there was a quote I find appropriate:

“If you must remember, remember this…
The Nazis did not kill six million Jews,
Nor did the Interhamwe kill a million Tutsis.
They killed one and then another, then another…
Genocide is not a single act of murder,
It is a million acts of murder”

The last exhibit – which I found the hardest was called something like “Lives Wasted” or “Wasted Opportunities”, something to that affect. It featured probably fifteen or twenty kids. Each one had a large blown up picture of them, and then a plaque that had there name, age, favorite foods, favorite games, best friend, what they wanted to be when they grew up, and then how they died (things that were absolutely unimaginable to me – machete to the head, thrown against a wall, tortured to death). I had a bit of a breakdown, walking around reading these things. Both very moving and very touching.




Outside the main building, are 11 mass graves where the remains of about 250,000 people lie. I found it hard to imagine, that’s more than double the population of Thunder Bay. I had trouble wrapping my head around the fact that the genocide happened in Rwanda – as it now seems so peaceful, and its such a stunningly beautiful country. I couldn’t help but wonder when I talked with people around town what they must have been going through less than fifteen years ago.

"We will never forget you" on one of the mass graves.

Next we went to Hotel des Milles Collines (Hotel Rwanda), which is quite the posh hotel. We went down by the pool and sat at a table by the bar and just had a drink and chatted for a little while. You would have never known it was a huge refuge for so many during the genocide had you not seen the movie or read about it (there were no plaques, or signs, just a regular nice hotel). Knowing the history was kind of chilling to sit there… When I got back to Jinja, I read the autobiography of Paul Rusesabagina, the manager of the hotel at the time, entitled “An Ordinary Man”. I highly recommend it if you’re at all interested in learning more about the genocide and about the hotel. It’s written quite simply and reads MUCH more easily than “Shake Hands with the Devil” (Romeo Dallaire), which I read a couple years ago, and found it difficult to follow because it was from such a military perspective.

gorillas in the mist

Yesterday (Sunday) - Vicki and I woke up at 5:30 or so (after an 11 hour sleep -haahah) and drove up to the main park office for the "Parc National des Volcans". We had booked our gorilla permits about a month ago - as they are quite hard to get ahold of. There are only about 700 mountain gorillas left in the world - located in the mountains between the borders of Uganda, Congo, and Rwanda. We were at the same area where Diane Fossey documented and lived with the Gorillas (Gorillas in the Mist). Absoltuely incredible drive up in the morning - super misty (how cliché) - coudln't see the the peak of the mountains from the mist- gorgeous! I think there are 5 groups of gorillas located in Rwanda - and each group can be visited by 8 people a day for an hour (this is a really strict time line - as not to bother the gorillas for too long). There are trekkers that go and find each group every morning and then stay within half a kilometer or so from them to watch for poachers.

Vicki and I joined another group of 6 that have been staying in Kigali for a while (all doing different things). We trekked a group called "Group 13", creatively named as when the group was discovered in 85 it had 13 members. Since has grown to 22 - 1 silverback (male leader), 10 females and then a bunch of "juveniles" and babies - the youngest (which we didn't see) was only two weeks old. Really interesting - the gorillas in each group are distinguished by their "noseprints" which are all unique - just like out fingerprints. We got driven to a smaller village and then walked about half an hour or so to the edge of the national parc. From there it was another hour and a half or so in the park to get to the gorillas. Was a pretty strenuous hike (not really that high) just lots of mud, and ducknig through vines, bamboo, etc. Once we got there we left our packs with the trekkers and then walked closer with the guide and one of the trekkers. They made "gorilla noises" that are supposed to "make the gorillas happy" - just lots of grunting really.

Absolutely phenomenal when we saw them - the silverback was enormous - nearly 200 kilos. We got within 7m from them (thats the closest your allowed to get) - but at times I think we were much closer if one well out of a tree and we needed to back up. The whole experience was amazing and really so hard ot describe... don't htink i can really do it justice. Most of the time we were there they were eating, and climbing trees a bit - some of them had bad gas which was kind of humerous. Towards the end was there siesta time so they were all started sleeping. Got a glimpse of some of the babies - soooo cute. And the younger ones were super playful and were chasing each other around trees msot of the time we were there.

We couldn't take any photos with a flash (for obvious reasons) - so a lot of my pictures didn't really turn out that great. I have a couple - and Vicki also has some good videos though that I will post when I get faster internet (ie. in Canada). Anyways I should probably get off the internet and start exploring Kigali - gorillas were definately one of the most amazing things I have ever experienced!!!! Ever. Ciao for now! Lots of love,

leslie.

Rwanda, Rwanda!!!

One of the really busy streets - that is completely deserted for Umuganda (monthly event where everything closes for cleaning and community service).

Please excuse all the spelling mistakes that may be in this – as I’m using a keyboard that’s in French so everything is moved around - so i've swithced it to english but now i have ot type by memory which i'm not very good at! Bah…

So it was a long time coming (ten hours in a overpacked bus from Kampala to Kigali to be exact). Bus ride involved being super squished with bags cramped everywhere, peeing in the bush, eating pretty much nothing except a package of biscuits, chaos at the border crossing, and an array of lovely smells, featuring strong Ugandan BO among other “special” smells. Also my backpack got covered in a wonderful mysterious liquid that smells horrid – lovely. Hahah anyways we made it alive.

The hotel which we thought we had booked – turned out not to be. We were brought across the street to a hotel which is awesome but a little more expensive then we wanted to pay (about 20 US for a room – per person). Really nice hotel though, would probably pay 100 Cdn at home, so was a nice treat to have a nice shower, TV, and a little balcony.

On the bus over we met a group of 4 guys, 2 Americans and 2 Brits, who also were in a similar jam (having thought they were booked in at the same hotel to find that they also were not). So we spent most of the night hanging out with them – awesome time, and neat to hear their travel stories from all over. I’ve also been using my French here – which is awesome as I haven’t spoken much for the last 4 or 5 years (since the end of high school really). So I have been in charge of ordering everyone dinner, booking rooms, asking for directions, etc. – anyways lots of fun and haven’t had too much difficulty so far.

Next day Vicki and I took a bus to from Kigali to Ruhengeri (close to the Ugandan and Congolese border) where we were staying the night before mountain gorilla trekking. Mtatu ride up was equally as squished as our bus ride to Kigali and the man beside me was super sweaty and I had old man BO all over my arm for the whole ride up – I smelt super good after! Anyways all write more about the gorilla trip in my other post.

Came back to Kigali yesterday to find that once again the hotel we had been booked at was overbooked and we had no room. Lukily, the man who runs the hotel is in love with me – and has told me, Vicki and lots of other people – that we are getting married – so he walked Vicki and I hand in hand across the street back to the expensive hotel and got us a really good discount on our room. Thank god for the Canadian French accent! He’s also giving us a good deal on our rooms for the rest of our stay here (paying 6,000 fr a piece per night instead of the usual 9,000fr).

First impressions of Rwanda: I was surprised at how different it is from Rwanda. It seems a lot more wealthy – as I’ve been told that following the genocide a lot of international donor flooded the country with cash. Boy it really makes a difference. It seems much more developed that Uganda. The roads are paved with little to no potholes – I would say better than a lot of the roads in Canada. Also the landscape is really different than Uganda – rolling hills everywhere. The ride down was stunning as the roads wind down through the hills – absolteuly breathtaking views. I have lots of pictures but none of the computers at this internet café take USB cords so I will update when I can. It’s absolutely beautiful though! Also Rwandans make incredible use of the land available – almost every inch of soils seems to be being cultivated. Even in hills where there are near vertical drops there are crops.

Also – I was shocked at how clean everything is here. It’s been such a shock compared to Uganda – where garbage is thrown everywhere, animals and their feces little the streets – grown used to it, and I think it adds to Uganda’s charm in a way – but entirely different from Rwanda. At the border crossing we had to remove all of our plastic bags as they aren’t allowed in the country (you could buy paper bags for 100 fr – about 20 cents American each). Also on Saturday – we were here for this monthly event - Umuganda, (I think the first Saturday of every month) where the whole country stops until mid-day to clean. It was so bizarre – no one can drive and virtually everything is shut down as everyone is supposed to go out and clean the street. Even this morning I woke up at 6 (because Vicki and I went to bed at about 7:45 last night) and was reading on the balcony and there were people cleaning the streets. Even the poorest of the poor seem to ensure that their yards are well kept and tidy. It’s beautiful – and really makes a difference. Phenomenal country to visit – more expensive than Uganda though.

Today Vicki and I are walking around Kigali and exploring for most of the day. We are planning on buying some food and maybe some toys and clothes for Pilagie, Vicki’s sponsor child who we will be visiting on Wednesday. So excited! Tomorrow we are planning to visit the genocide memorials (as well as two church memorials where there were large massacres – if we have time) and then hoping to head to Hotel Milles Collines (Hotel Rwanda) in the afternoon or evening.

Thursday were taking the treacherous bus ride back to Kampala. And Friday we are going to a dinner at the Canadian Consulate (READ: free dinner at a nice hotel). That’s it for now! Wow, this is the longest post of life. Cheers!

my first boda accident

So, Vicki and I went to Kampala today (right now at the backpackers in Kampala where we're staying the night). We each had our own boda from the main Adrift office down to a bus station... So driving in Kampala is pretty scary stuff to start with - there's TONNNS of traffic, and boda swerve in and out everywhere. Pretty much a free for all - so a car cut the boda that I was on off to get into a parknig spot which forced my driver to slam on the breaks and i got shoved into him pretty hard. Then the driver started backing up and hit our boda - oh my.... scary, but was going slow. The driver got out and my boda man got off the boda - and they kind of shoved each other and yelled a bit. I was kind of scared. By that time Vicki's boda was far ahead and out of sight. Anyways the driver wanted to call the cops - but in the end we just drove off. So that was my first bit of real boda excitement. My boda man was convinced the driver was drunk. Anyways I'm here safe and sound - trip to Rwanda off to a good start - exciting already.

makes you think...

So when we went to Kampala a while back (for the Safari) we went to a mall called garden city. They had this big bookstore which Lindsay, Vicki and I spent a ton of time in. I was eyeing this photography book called "Hope in the Dark" (By Jeremy Cowart and Jena Lee), but didn't really want to buy it because it was kind of expensive and I convinced myself that I could buy it online when I got home if I still wanted it. Vicki knew how much i wanted it, so she sneekily went and got it for me, so when I got home a while later there was this book as a present on my bed. Honestly, thank you so much Vicki - one of the best books, and it really means the world to me.

I just thought I would share a quote that I found particularly touching.

* * * Decisions I must make on any given day:
- Blue shirt or pink cardigan?
- Tall soy chai latte or Grande caramel macchiato?
- Write reports first or work on budget?
- Text message or call?
- Eat out or frozen dinner?
- Reality television or headline news?


* * * Decisions SHE must make on any given day:
- blue dress or blue dress?
- river water or puddle water?
- Walk once for four hours to get water or walk twice for eight hours to get more water?
- Sleep with the fisherman who will give food in return or let orphaned grandchildren go to bed hungry?
- persist through the struggle or give up?
- Curse God or praise Him?

Market Madness!

Got back on a computer so I thought I would post some pics from the market. market is absoltue chaos usually and you can buy absolutely everything you could ever need with people willing to bargain a price.
Sweet, sweet pineapples.

Fish, fish, fish.... apparently these little baby fish are really nutritious! I haven't tried them - but people kind of snack on them. They also sell fried bugs that people munch on (white ants...I think). MMM...

The butcher...

deux jours avant Rwanda!

So I have just two days left in Jinja, before Vicki and I leave for Rwanda. Tomorrow I’m going to Welcome Home orphanage to say my last goodbyes to all the kids and the moms. :( We’re staying in Kampala for a night and just getting organized (going to the bank, booking the bus, etc.) and then will be off on Friday morning. We’re planning on visiting the genocide memorials, trekking the mountain gorillas, and visiting Vicki’s sponsor child. Soooo excited. Also it will be fun to practice my French a bit, which I haven’t used in probably 4 years. I’m not sure if we’ll have internet access (or have time to use it!), so I might not post again until I am back in Jinja (around July 15th). I’ll be spending my last couple days at TASO – and then I leave to go back home to Canada on the night of July 18th. Wow, can’t believe how quick it has all gone - thought i would post a couple pics because the internet is working really well today (except email for some reason).

Little message written in red dirt.
Vicki and I jumping for joy!

A cute little boy at one of the villages I was at with TASO!

A man walknig down the street on my way to TASO.

Sarah, from the drama group, and two ladies from one of the villages. Most of the older women in Jinja, and most women in villages wear these pouffy sleeve dresses with huge sash belt things. Pouffy sleeves are all the rage in Uganda. I am yet to buy a dress.

Saying bye with some school kids!

This is a pretty standard butcher in Uganda. If you look close, there is a carcass hanging...mmm. There's usually flies all over it, and they just grab a huge machete and cut you off a peice. This is also the reason why I am hesitant to eat any meat here - hahaha.

I'll try to post during slash following Rwanda if I can, if not I'll post some stuff when I get home (plus videos that I have taken here and more pics!). Lots of love, xoxoxox

leslie (namulondo)

Village outreaches, more dance lessons, and life stories.

My latest project at TASO has been to make a book with all of the personal testimonies of the group members. I’m going to send a copy of the book back here (to TASO Jinja), and then a copy will stay in Canada. My mom wanted me to buy a bunch of necklaces from the TASO group (they make them as an income generating activity) – and she will be selling them (and making earrings with them?) from Canada. So a copy of the book will go with the necklaces (at least at first), so that people can read the stories of the people who have made the necklaces. I am ecstatic about making it, and will keep me busy when I get home. It’s incredible, as the members are super excited about having their testimonies (life stories kind of about them, their past, their families, and how they came to be infected with the virus, their current situation, etc.) written down – and excited for people to read about them in Canada. I think it will be really eye-opening for people at home to read as well – as it really puts a face to the pandemic, rather than just hearing the number of people that are infected, people can hear their stories, and see their faces. The members are leaders in their community and have no same whatsoever in sharing their story with whoever will listen, such to encourage others to live positively as well as to prevent others from becoming infected.

Last week I bought a package of paper and some pens, and those who are able to write in English have written their testimonies down for me. Others have told me while I am at the TASO center and I have written them down verbatim. A couple of the members have helped translate for those that speak only little bits of English. So the past week has been really busy in trying to organize everyones testimonies and taking photographs (which they love!). So far I have 22 stories, and have a couple more to do. I feel so privileged to have hear their stories. Most of them are so deeply personal – stories of being orphaned, raped, married at a young age because they had no money for school fees, being cheated on, and being widowed. It was hard and kind of strange to write out some of their stories, as I have grown so accustomed to seeing their smiling faces over the past month – and I find their courage and strength in carrying on after such hardships, amazing. Also, I feel so connected to them now – more than ever. I am already dreading saying goodbye in the next coming weeks. I’m trying to plan what I’m going to do for my last days – I’m thinking going to the market and buying a bunch of fruit for everyone in the group. It doesn’t really seem like enough though…

In the book, I’m also going to include some pictures from practices at the TASO center as well as pics that I have taken when we go out in the villages to sensitize. Last Thursday we went to a Muslim primary school about an hour or so away. Lots of fun, and I stood up in front of all the kids and introduced myself and what I have been doing since I arrived in Jinja – which they found hilarious! Friday, went out again with the drama group to a villag and Vicki came. As a thank you from the village, they provided lunch – rice, matooke (warm, mashed, green bananas), and a pot full of fish stew (lots of fish heads….mmmm). Yesterday (Monday), had my second African dance lesson. I’m still horrible, but its lots of fun. Also, sang "Oh Canada" for them the other day - which they enjoyed.

Dance practice.... the pictures with me in them (from the first practice) are on my other memory card... so I'll post when i get home.
Part of the audience at one of the village outreaches.

The kids who laughed at me - hahaaha at the Muslim primary school we visited.

Part of the drama group relaxing before one of the performances.

Hips don't lie

Just thought I would post some pics up of the drama group from TASO. I've been spending a lot of my time talking with them. So much to tell and so much to learn, really inspirational.

Yesterday - i sang with them a bit (yes, it wasn't pretty...). Really, really cool experience. They are all amazing at singing - they came second last year at a national competition.

Also thought I would post the lyrics to one of the songs:

Time has come
Time has come for the people of Uganda,
To say no, no, no
To this deadly AIDS.
People of Uganda - wake up, wake up,
and bravely march,
Let us fight this AIDS,
The source of all suffering,
Source of misery and stress

United we stand,
But divided we fall.
Let us arise all people of Uganda.
Join us now, as we are in the struggle,
to reverse the spread of this deadly scourge.

He took my father and took away my mother,
took away my brother and all my relatives.
Sobbing and crying, mourning filled with all sadness,
Pray you help me, save me or I die.
My life is hard.

I think it's probably that much more powerful when you here them sing it. I wish I had a video camera (my camera takes short clips but has no sound).

Also yesterday had my first African dance lessons with the group. Was absolutely hilarious! everyone was dying - and yelling "Namulondo, Namulondo". Not very good so far - my hips don't "break" like African hips but I think I'm going to get a couple more lessons before I go. I have a couple little videos that I'll try to post when I'm back in Canada.

Behind the falls

Vicki and I behind the falls! So beautiful! One of the many chameleons that Tom spotted...

Tom and I walking over the super sketchy bridge.

Coffeee! Oh, tim horton's how i miss you. They grow tons of coffee here but export most of it - and everyone drinks instant coffee :(.

Vicki and I went on a huge day trip yesterday to Sippi Falls (which is close to Mt. Elgon, around the Kenyan border). Looking back probably would have been wiser to do the trip in two days rather than one, but ah well, we're trying to watch the bank a bit and didn't want to pay for a nights accommodation if we didn't have to.

We were at the taxi park by about 7 am or so and found a mtatu - that left right away which is a rarity! Normally, they wait until they are completely full before they leave - which can take hours... So we were off - with a 3 or so hour journey ahead of us to Mbale. Many stops to pick and drop off people on the way and REALLY squishy - i think i counted 20 people (in a car that should fit 14). I enjoy mtatu rides though as you get to see a lot in terms of scenery, houses, etc. and also get to talk with people a bit along the way. Mid-journey we had to stop as we ran out of petrol - they pumped the gas tank with their hands a bit to get it started and then we proceeded to drive on both sides of the road in an S shape (I think to get gas into the engine - or whatever car part it needs to get into as I know absolutely nothing about mechanics). Anyways got to Mbale safe and sound - with very full bladders. Took a bit of a walk, and found where we needed to get our next mtatu (about another hour) up to Sippi Falls.

When we got to Sippi - we found a guide Tom who was hysterical. Really, really nice guy who kept telling us that he would do whatever we wanted so that we would leave happy. And kept talking about how much he liked touring, and how we are all the same. And how he wishes to start a business to sell black skin to tourists so that Ugandans don't automatically assume that mzungus are rich when they see you (or something like that?!!??). Anyways he was a good time - and was expert at finding little chameleons in the trees, and also showed us coffee trees and the plants they use at the "local toilet paper". Unfortunately we were in a bit of a time crunch and had only about 2 and half hours to see the falls. We saw what Tom said was the "most beautiful" falls - which were absolutely breathtaking. Got to walk behind the falls and kind of through them (on the side) - was absolutely incredible! Paradise! After that, it started raining a bit and so we had to go back as we wouldn't be able to get transport back and it would be to hard to climb if it was muddy so our already short climb - was cut to only about an hour.

From Sippi - Tom hooked us up with a ride back to Mbale riding "African Style" in the back of a car (squished in the trunk with one other Ugandan guy). Not that fun. Got back to Mbale and made our way to the taxi park for another long mtatu ride. Nothing to eventful on the ride back - except a chicken was under our seat. Also the conductor (the guy who takes the money) got in a fight kind of with some guy that didn't have enough money to pay for the trip. Made it back safely, long long day (8 hours of driving for about an hour and a bit to see the falls themselves).

This morning went to TASO, and also interviewed one of hte counsellors at the AIDS Information Center which is one of the main voluntary testing and counseling centers in town. It's crazy how quickly time passes. Just a week and half in Jinja, then Vicki and I are off to Rwanda. Wow, doesn't seem like it has been that long. And feels like i could easily stay another 2 or 3 months. Oh, the lady who runs the guest house didn't pay the water bill. So we have been low on water the past little while and weren't supposed to shower - so i smell and look really pretty as it's now Monday and I haven't showered since Thursday. mmmm.... awesome. Vicki and I had a conversation about this morning and realized that the majority of the people here don't have running water ever. kind of embarrassing to be complaining about it.

I'll add pictures later - this computer won't recognize my camera for some reason. Anyways lots of love and thanks again for all the messages of support!

Through my eyes

Things I see on a daily basis here:

- a little fresh black paper on your meal?

- Bikes carrying more things than you could have ever though possible

- funny menu items (Tuna fish “Open your own can” Sandwich; at the bottom of one menu “We are in every order” – awesome, sounds appetizing)

- chickens, cows and goats roaming the streets
- near head on collisions (all the time…absolutely horrifying)
- African time (everything ten times slower than in Canada, expect for when behind the wheel)
- Lots of shoe vendors on the side of the street (not really sure why shoes but they’re everywhere!)
- Men are all very well dressed (even when they come out of mudhuts…they have nice crisp white dress shirts and dress pants). They look “smart” – as they say here (which just means well dressed/put together)
- Women who work incredibly hard (hard physical labour all the time), and long long days
- Swollen bellies
- Beautiful smiles
- People much friendlier and happier to a certain extent than many people you meet in Canada (despite having much tougher lives in many ways)
- Massive portions of food (which I am sadly getting quite accustomed to)
- Off-roading when there are traffic jams
- Knee-deep potholes
- Driving skills that would put even the best Mario cart player to shame
- Boda drivers harassing me (read Vicki’s blog for more on the daily conversations we have with boda drivers)
- Most clothes stores sell second hand clothes from America and Canada (still has tags from Value Village – makes you wonder where clothes that you have donated within Canada end up)
- Little kids – yelling “Mzungu, how are you?” – if you answer “I’m fine, how are you” or anything else they just repeat “mzungu, how are you?” for the most part.

- People asking for money or asking how they can come and live in Canada
- Boda drivers that shut off their engines going over even the slightest bit of a hill to save petrol
- When it rains, everything stops.
- Many friends (mukwano!)
- Green, green tress and red, red, earth

“We are all out of spring”

There’s a restaurant on Main Street that Vicki and I (and Lindsay when she was in Uganda) have been to a couple times, called Kabindi Lounge (which is debatably a brothel by night). Wednesday night we met up with a bunch of people from the guesthouse (Ben, Pete, Will – all british gap year students, and Russell – who is the newest volunteer from GIVE). Got our drinks after a good 20-30 min wait (I think there may have been one other table in the restaurant). Placed our order after probably 45 minutes (which is quite common). After another 20 or so – our waiter came back letting us know that half of the orders couldn’t be made as they didn’t have the right ingredients (or something like that). Someone had ordered spring rolls and we were informed that they were “all out of spring”…hahaha. Oh Uganda. I love it. So Vicki and I ordered chicken lomein, and all of the boys ordered spaghetti and meatballs. After another 45 or so I got my food as did 3 of the 4 boys (the other two didn’t get served at all). Oh what a night. Got back to the guesthouse, and at about quarter to 12, I woke up with the worst pain slash most nauseating feeling ever. Throw up (and wake up Vicki – who sat with me, God bless her). Went back to bed. Power goes out. Proceed to throw up 3 more times using my headlamp to find the toilet. It was a rough night, my oh my. I ended up just staying home the next day and sleeping – feeling much better today though.

TASO, TASO, TASO...

Everything is going really well at TASO. I have gotten to do a lot of different things so far. Friday I spent the morning learning about the aromatherapy and reflexology services they provide and watched one of the procedures, which was really cool. Really elaborate clinical aromatherapy services – which I have never really learned about (they make different combinations of oils depending on the ailment). Mixtures for nearly everything: skin conditions, TB, diarrhead, respiratory problems, stress, sciatica, must have 20 or 30 different things) and then mix it with vegetable oil and massage the patient.

I spent Friday afternoon with the drama group and got to go out to one of the villages with them (about 2 hours away). The group is all people living with HIV/AIDS and they go out and sing (absolutely beautiful) and act out skits to sensitize people in villages, as well as talk about TASO and its services, answer questions about AIDS and HIV as well as provide condoms to the community. So we all crammed into a matatu (taxi van) and were off. The way there was hilarious because they were asking me all these questions about Canada (things that they had heard): that we eat snakes, that we have divorce contracts that we sign when we get married, haha lots of funny stuff. Drama group is absolutely hilarious and is a testament to what positive living should be about. They are loud, talkative, always laughing and poking fun at one another. Also talked to them a lot about issues around HIV and AIDS here – compared to Canada (the age people begin to “play sex” – as they call it, peoples perceptions in Uganda about condoms – they say that many people say that many people believe that “Condoms are not true love”).

Once we arrived at the village there was a group of women pumping water from the well and a big line of jerry cans ready to be filled. I got to try pumping water (I could only last about five minutes!) – it’s really tough work. The audience for the performance wasn’t as large as usual (normally about 70 people) as there were 2 burials in the village that day. They decided to perform a shortened act which I only partly understood as most of it was in Luganda. Then part way through it started pouring so everyone scattered so we ended up leaving a little early.

On the way back we got stuck in a massive traffic jam and took about an extra hour to get home. Went off-roading a couple times which was a little scary. Got stuck in the mud and got out and pushed. Hahah… when in Africa.

Great time – enjoying it soo much! Wanted to say thanks for all the emails with encouragement and sorry if I haven’t replied. Lots of love,

leslie.

Day of the African Child

Saturday (June 16th) was “Day of the African Child,” a day to celebrate achievements in the state of children in Africa. There was big celebration in Jinja where local children sang and performed with their school choirs. Vicki and I had made plans to travel to a little island on the Nile for the weekend so unfortunately couldn’t make it to festivities. As we had heard a lot about it though through volunteering at the orphanage it was on my mind. As we drove Saturday morning – I noticed how many small children were working (they always are, I guess I was just more attentive). 4 or 5 years old girls carrying jerry cans full of water on their heads, young boys and girls working in the fields. Made me wonder why these children were excluded, forgotten from the celebrations.

While flipping through Saturdays newspaper – read about Kony’s atrocities in northern Uganda. Children being abducted, beaten, forced to carry out raids, burn houses, beat and kill other civilians and abduct other children.

Same paper there was a section where children had written in their messages to African Fathers for fathers day on Sunday. Couple excerpts:

“African Fathers should respect their wives and children by avoiding torturing and beating them” – Age 10

“All fathers should love their children. Instead of beating them when they do something wrong, they should show them the right thing to do. Children always learn from their fathers when they do not beat them” – Age 10

“Fathers should live longer and look after their families properly” – Age 12

Not the kind of things you read about fathers day in Canada. Again really puts things into perspective. Although I think there are a lot of things to celebrate for the “Day of the African Child” (universal primary education for one), I think there is still a long way to go.

Luganda Lessons

The Luganda I’ve learned so far. You can easily get around with just English at most places but I’ve been trying my best to learn a bit at the orphanage, TASO and from the gatekeepers at the guesthouse.

Oliotia = How are you?
Bulungee = good
Webale = thank you
Webale nyo = thank you very much
Kale = OK
Mukwana = friend (or friendship I don’t really know – I think it might be interchangeable)
Ssebo = man
Nyabo = woman
Bitano = 500 (useful for bargaining with boda drivers)
Lukime =1000
Nkwagala nyo = I love you very much
Abanna mbagala nyo = Children, I love you so much
Nedda = no
Jabele = well done
Kulikayo = welcome back
Wasizotya = good morning
Ngolaybe = sorry
Kiki (pronounced chi-chi) = what!
Tugende = lets go
Bakuyrta Anni = What’s your name?
Ogendewa =Where are you going?
Ogenda = I’m going…

Vicki's blog!

I just wanted to post a link to Vicki's blog as well (yes we are both big blog losers together hahaha). Might be nice to read how things are here from another Canadian girls perspective: http://www.vkharris.blogspot.com/

HIV/AIDS: Personalized

Prior to coming to Uganda, I tried to prepare through my 3rd year independent study – by reading and learning as much as I could about the pandemic in this country. I read studies, national reports, and attended conferences and lectures to learn as uch as I could about the intricacies of HIV and AIDS – woven into the fabric of this continent in a sense. Although this provided me with a little background, I don’t think I could ever really be prepared.

In the short time that I have been volunteering with TASO (and spending time in Uganda), I have come to learn and appreciate that a national prevalence rate of 7% (approx.), is much more daunting, realistic and saddening when you meet those infected (and affected) – see their faces, and say their names. All the statistics that I had read – seemed dehumanizing. The reality of children being orphaned by AIDS is that much more difficult when you talk and play with them.

I feel ashamed, guilty and embarrassed in a way for the things I worry about at home – be it ex-boyfriends, school, and all the small things. Life seems so uch more difficult here. The people so much more grateful and patient. When I arrive to volunteer at TASO – by 8:45 or 9:00, patients (between 100-300 daily) are lined up waiting to get counseling, medical care and ARVs. Many come for their appointments once a month from villages hours away, knowing thatthey will likely wait for the better part of the day to be served. What’s ore is that, many are peasants with minimal ways of gaining incoe, who ust make the long and relatively expensive journey to TASO in Jinja every month. It makes complaints about wait times in Canada seem kind of ridiculous. Really puts things into perspective.

I have found so far the people living with AIDS absolutely inspiring. Their spirits courageous, unashamed and resilient to the toll the pandemic has had on the country. Most of the clients that come into TASO look very healthy, indifferentiable from other Ugandans I see around town. The other day I spent the morning talking with a group of women living with AIDS, who were making necklaces to sell. They were boisterous, full of life, laughing and talking. They were straightforward in asking me questions about Canada. If there are AIDS support groups for women in Canada? And how stigmatized AIDS is in Canada. Wonderful women, I look forward to more conversations with them over the next month. They also renamed me with a Ugandan name as they (as do most Ugandans), found my name very strange and difficult to pronounce. So my new Ugandan name is Namulondo – which means from the monkey clan in the Busoga tribe (I think…that’s what I understood)

Finding my time with TASO so far incredible – but taxing emotionally at times. I have done some different things so far – everyday a little different. I went on a clinic outreach to a village two and a half hours away (long 11 hour day!!!), helped in the pharmacy counting drugs, helped recording all the clients who have come and spent one day in the children’s day center for HIV positive children (as well as a few negative children whose parents are positive and had no caretakers for the day). There is so much to learn.
I don’t think that my words due justice to what I’m feeling.

Link to TASO: www.tasouganda.org

Lions, tigers and bears...oh my (minus tigers and bears - and add a couple more animals in the bunch)

Lindsay, Vicki and I went up to Murchison Falls national park last weekend for a little safari getaway. We left from Kampala and drove north for about 6-7 hours. Driving still absolutely insane. Technically, driving is on the left hand side here – however in practice it is usually half off the road in the ditch or on the wrong side to avoid massive potholes everywhere. A little nutty, but made it up in one piece. We went with 5 other English people who were also staying in Jinja (Elsa, Gemma, Sarah, Chris and Philipa) – great bunch. And we all got along really well.

Accommodations were proper safari tents with beds inside (but no mosquito nets!). We saw quite a few animals right from the cap site – a family of warthogs and a baboon routing through the garbage (they could teach the raccoons in Hamilton a few tricks!). Sunday morning left at 7 am for the safari. Scenery was beautiful – very Lion King-esque. Breathtaking – took lots of pics and will post more when I am back in Canada as it takes about 10 minutes to upload a picture. The safari was about 4 hours – and we saw lots of Ugandan cobs (kind of like an antelope), giraffes, elephants, buffalo, baboons, warthogs, lots of birds and some other animals which I can’t seem to think of at the moment. Also saw a female lion with two cubs – which our driver wanted to track so we went off-roading and got stuck in the mud about 25 m from the lions. Driver then got out of the truck – which I thought was a little scary…in the end another safari truck towed us out. Anyways great fun and got loads of good pics. The girls and I broke out in Lion King songs a couple of times hahah…

Went back to camp for lunch, followed by a boat cruise up to the falls and saw lots of hippos (and a couple baby hippos) and a group of at least 20 crocs running into the water. Couple more elephants too! Incredible! Next morning went for a hike up the falls which was breathtaking. Murchison Falls are the narrowest point of the River Nile, at about 6m wide – incredibly powerful and absolutely beautiful!